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Kartong
A late afternoon trip to the wetlands at Kartong was a highlight where we saw several species of birds including the adorable ‘purple swamp hen’. Mustapha knew exactly where to find them! Driving on through Kartong he took us on to have dinner by the water’s edge where flotillas of pelicans came to entertain us as we ate. Magical.
Calypso and its crocodile Pool
We asked Mustapha if he knew somewhere for lunch, not too far from our hotel and where we could see some bird life at the same time. He took us to Calypso restaurant at Cape Point, Bakau. The setting was perfect. From comfortable seats in the shade we watched bee eaters, rollers, kingfishers, terns, egrets and herons. Overlooking a small lake between the restaurant and the beach, we also spotted crocodiles at a safe distance! And the food was good!
Upriver
Travelling upriver has been a real treat. Mustapha arranged for us to stay at Bintang Bolong Lodge where we stayed in wooden houses on stilts over the river. Waking up to the sunrise over the water and watching the women in canoes gliding silently to collect oysters from the mangroves was very special. Later we walked round the village and watched the women shelling the oysters before visiting the huge village garden with carpets of mint and vegetables as far as the eye could see. Everyone was so friendly.
The next stop Mustapha arranged was Tendaba camp, a bigger concern with a choice of rooms, some with air conditioning. We wandered along the river shore to watch a village football match before a buffet dinner and drinks from the bar. After breakfast the next morning we took to a huge canoe (with outboard engine) and crossed the river to creeks where we watched numerous African darters dive from the trees into the water before surfacing metres away, explaining their common name as snake birds. These were just one of numerous bird sightings and on the way back across the river we hit lucky and were joined by a group of dolphins enjoying our company. A real highlight.
Our furthest destination was Janjanbureh, an island full of history and well worth a visit. Mustapha arranged for us to stay in comfortable accommodation overlooking the river. After an island tour to see key sites we relaxed with cold beers (soft drinks available too) in the lodge’s restaurant area watching the ferry, people fishing, washing clothes and jumping and swimming in the river. In the late afternoon we caught the ferry for a short walk on the north bank where we saw lots more birds including hoopoes, and monkeys galore.
Travelling back to the coast we stopped for lunch, this time at ABCA’s creek lodge, near Bintang Bolong. This is a more sophisticated place attracting tourists from Senegal as well as The Gambia. Paved walks and comfortable seats in lookout points across the green gardens overlooking mangroves offer excellent views of birds and monkeys.
Bintang Bolong
Tendabe
Jinjanbureh
ABCA
Kafountine, Casamance, Senegal
At Kafountine we stayed at a lovely small eco-lodge with comfortable rooms, very friendly staff and food and drink that gave us a real sense of French culture. Walking through to the beach we saw hundreds of fishing canoes at anchor and enjoyed a long leisurely walk north along the sand. Staying two nights Mustapha showed us other eco-lodges, including one where we watched ospreys, the small botanic garden, and Abene, a neighbouring village, a favourite with artists. We walked around the most enormous silk cotton tree (with magical properties!) before driving down a sandy track to an amazing beach side restaurant with sun loungers under casuarina trees (thanks Mustapha). The sophisticated service in such rustic surroundings was just a joy. We are definitely coming back to Casamance.
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